Days 41-45: Week 6

This week, it seemed like each day was getting better and better. Monday (7/21), began early in the morning with a conference call with the rest of the Whiffenpoofs across the Pacific. I then hopped on the tram so I could finish my weekly journal for class, due after each weekend.

After class, I and two other friends went to the local radio station, where we had signed up to participate in a radio show. I was pretty nervous, wary of embarrassing myself with my sub-par Japanese for the whole city to hear, but it turned out to be fine, and even fun. The host, although maybe slightly condescending, asked us pretty simple questions during the 20-minute interview, about our experience in the city, etc. (Here is a link to download a 1-minute clip where you can hear me talking). Afterwards, we celebrated having conquered our nerves with soft serve and beer.

Squid ink ice cream

For dinner that evening Okaasan prepared sashimi, and I have a hunch that she did so because I mentioned it was my favorite Japanese food on the radio program that afternoon. Tricky, tricky (and very considerate).

Tuesday (7/22) during on of the breaks in between class periods, a friend from another class came to our classroom to see if anyone wanted to join her for gospel concert that evening. I was, fittingly, blasting gospel music in my headphones at the time, and I thought it would be a fun experience (even though I had a test the next day). I was very curious to see what Japanese gospel even meant…

After class, I participated in a kimono culture class, and we got to try on yukata – light, summer versions of kimono. Then, I had my final shamisen lesson before the Independent Study lessons the next week. I wasn't sure how I'd be able to do, this being only my third lesson, but I recalled what we had already learned pretty quickly. At the end I took a video of my sensei so I could at least memorize the melody of the song, since outside of the lessons I didn't have access to a shamsien to practice with. Then, I sped home on my bike, riding along the edge of the sea, my new favorite route.

My friend/classmate Li-san in her kimono

When I got home, Okaasan had prepared dinner early – Genghis Khan (yum). Then, I went off to the concert for the evening, and was surprised by how anointed the atmosphere was. The Japanese gospel singer and her band had rehearsed with a local choir from Hakodate, and my friend's host parents were singing in the choir (hence the tickets). And they could sing! It was a great, great time; my expectations were blown away, and I never would have expected to encounter this music that I love while in Northern Japan. My favorite song was the last one they sang, which – although most of the rest of the concert was in English – was in Japanese; I felt that the singers were able to connect that much more with the music since it was in their own tongue.

People lining up for the concert

On Wednesday (7/23) it was raining in the morning, yet I was still hoping to get my daily exercise by commuting by bike. Now, rational Ian would probably not bike 30 minutes in the rain, but this was not rational Ian – it was every-day-is-a-Japanese-adventure Ian. And so, every-day-is-a-Japanese-adventure Ian took his test that day with sopping wet shorts. For lunch I had some delicious tempura, and then in the afternoon participated in an English discussion time with local high school students. Speaking with the students reminded me how much patience it takes to help someone get their point across in a language they don't know well – patience my teacher and host mother had shown a lot of so far. I became more grateful.

Thursday (7/24) after class I went to a calligraphy class taught at the high school up the hill by a teacher who was very knowledgable and entertaining. He told us to draw our characters in a way that was expressive of the idea behind it (not just "mother," but what kind of mother? etc). He was very well versed in the subject matter, and also wrote in English cursive beautifully – impressive. At the end we received two nice canvas-like-boards to write on and give to our host families; I wrote the word 感謝 (thanks, gratitude).

The calligraphy teacher showing us his name in 5 different styles,
demonstrating the evolution of Japanese characters over time

"Right" and "left"

Then, Thursday evening, Okaasan took Nick and I to a Japanese "folk oldies" gathering, which was a hoot. Several people around Okaasan's age (many of whom were her high school classmates, apparently) gathered to sing songs they enjoyed. The lyrics were printed up in a little booklet, so it was a nice Japanese listening practice. There were also some English songs thrown in, and at one point Okaasan made me get up and sing in front of everyone; so I sang "Let It Be."

Friday (7/25) after class, I went to watch the movie "Jiro Dreams of Sushi," which they were showing in one of the classrooms. I had heard of it before, and it was a fascinating watch, all about a man who has risen to be a renowned sushi chef, mainly by the brute force of doing the same hard work every day of his life.

Afterwards, I sat down on a bench by the dock and finally finished my script for the Independent Study presentation (which I had spent a healthy dose of procrastination on). While sitting there I met a very nice person visiting from another part of Japan, and we talked briefly about what I was doing in Hakodate and how I enjoyed it. It was another of many such encounters during my stay; so many of the people are so genuinely nice and invested. And, once I finished writing, I treated myself to some gelato before heading home.

At the end of the evening, the three of us went to the an onsen – a nice way to wrap up the week.

"Japan's oldest concrete electric pole" – just one of the many wonders of Hakodate...